Salta To Cafayate Via Quebrada De Las Conchas (RN68)
There’s something rather satisfying about pointing the hire car south from Salta and watching the city streets give way to vineyards, then arid hills, then those unmistakable crimson cliffs that make Quebrada de las Conchas one of Argentina’s most photographed landscapes. We set off on RN68 expecting a straightforward drive – we got a two-hour lesson in why this route sits on every north-west Argentina itinerary. The good news? It’s entirely doable as a day trip, though we’d argue Cafayate deserves at least an overnight stay to properly unwind.
Route Overview
This isn’t a challenging drive by any stretch, but it’s the kind of journey where you’ll want to pull over every five minutes just to take it all in. The road descends gently from Salta (approximately 1,200m above sea level) through the Lerma Valley before climbing into the Quebrada de las Conchas – a dramatic canyon carved by the Las Conchas river. Most people tackle it as a one-way trip, dropping down to Cafayate and either looping back or continuing further south.
- Duration: 2 hr 45 min – 3 hr 30 min one way, depending on traffic and weather conditions
- Distance: Approximately 180 km (112 miles)
- Best season: March to May and September to November – summer heat can be intense and some roadside walks lack shade
- Road conditions: RN68 is predominantly paved and well-maintained, though mountain passes demand attention
- Recommended vehicle: A compact saloon copes fine for this route – there’s no need for 4WD unless you’re venturing off the main road
Key Stops in Order
We’d suggest structuring your drive around five unmissable stops – each one justifies the journey alone:
- Alemania – a tiny village about 45 minutes south of Salta where the landscape visibly shifts towards desert terrain
- Quebrada de las Conchas – the canyon itself, where you’ll understand why this road has earned legendary status
- Garganta del Diablo – a narrow rock formation that punches up through the canyon floor like a geological anomaly
- Amphitheatre (El Anfiteatro) – a natural amphitheatre carved into the cliff face, best appreciated in the soft morning light
- Cafayate – your final reward: sprawling vineyards, excellent Torrontés wine and a relaxed plaza perfect for afternoon people-watching
💡 Local tip: Stop at the roadside stalls between Alemania and the canyon entrance – the dulce de caramelo and queso de cabra are made locally and bear no resemblance to what you’d find in tourist shops.
Why not make the most of having your own vehicle and browse available hire cars in Salta before you travel? It means you can pick something with decent boot space for wine bottles collected en route.
This Trip Has Some Potholes to Watch For
Let’s be honest – RN68 isn’t without its quirks, and being prepared will save you a good deal of stress mid-journey.
Road Conditions and Weather
The road surface is generally excellent, but the mountain sections can throw up surprises. Flash flooding during summer thunderstorms occasionally closes portions of RN68 – always check local conditions before setting off. In winter (June to August), early morning mist can reduce visibility dramatically through the canyon, clearing by mid-morning in most cases.
Watch out for the wind – it funnels through the gorge with some force and can make steering trickier for taller vehicles or those with roof boxes.
Driving Hazards
Unlike some Argentine highways, RN68 is single carriageway for most of its length. Passing requires patience and good visibility – never attempt overtaking on blind bends. Speed limits are clearly marked, but locals do drive faster than the signage suggests. We’d recommend keeping to your own pace and not feeling pressured to match other drivers.
Feral dogs wander the road near villages – speed through Alemania and similar settlements rather than dawdling.
What to Pack in the Car
Sun protection is essential even on overcast days – the canyon walls reflect heat intensely. Carry at least two litres of water per person, and a hat for any roadside walks. Mobile signal is patchy to non-existent through the gorge, so download offline maps before departing Salta.
Practical Pre-Departure Checklist
- Full driver’s licence (national or international) – Argentine law requires this for all vehicle hires
- Credit card in the main driver’s name for the rental deposit
- Offline maps downloaded via Google Maps or Maps.me – do this before leaving Salta
- Comfortable walking shoes for the short trails through the gorge
- Light layers – it can be cool in the morning (particularly October to March) but heats up considerably by mid-morning
- Cash for the occasional toll section and roadside stalls (cards aren’t always accepted)
- Bin bags – take all litter with you, as facilities through the gorge are minimal
FAQ
Is RN68 suitable for first-time drivers in Argentina?
Yes – compared to some Argentine routes, RN68 is relatively straightforward. The surface is good, gradients are gentle and traffic is light outside peak holiday periods. The main challenges are single-carriageway overtaking sections and unpredictable weather through the gorge. Take your time and don’t rush – the scenery rewards patience.
Can I do this trip by public transport?
Technically yes – buses run from Salta to Cafayate daily and pass through the gorge. However, you’ll have no control over stops, can’t linger at the viewpoints and will miss the Amphitheatre and Garganta del Diablo entirely unless you hike from the main road (not recommended without proper preparation). A hire car genuinely transforms this particular journey.
Is Cafayate worth an overnight stay?
Without question. The town has a much more relaxed atmosphere than Salta and the surrounding vineyards deserve at least half a day. We stayed one night and wished we’d booked two – the evening light over the mountains is particularly special, and several wineries close their doors to day-trippers by mid-afternoon. Cafayate also makes a sensible base for exploring further south towards the Calchaquies Valleys if your schedule allows.
How does the wine tasting work in Cafayate?
Most wineries welcome walk-in visitors for tastings, though booking ahead for smaller boutique establishments is sensible. Torrontés is the regional specialty – a crisp white wine that pairs beautifully with goat’s cheese and local fare. Expect to pay roughly 150–400 ARS per tasting depending on the winery and number of wines sampled. Several vineyards offer cheese boards and full lunch menus at very reasonable prices by UK standards.
What happens if weather closes the road?
RN68 occasionally closes at short notice during summer storms – the gorge is prone to flash flooding. If you’re caught in this situation, retreat to the nearest village and wait for official clearance. The good news is that closures are typically resolved within a few hours. Download the wxpull or Mendoza Radio apps for real-time road updates before setting off.
Is it safe to drive at night through the gorge?
We’d strongly advise against it. The road has minimal lighting, wildlife is more active after dark and the single-carriageway sections become genuinely hazardous without good visibility. Depart Salta by 9am at the latest to ensure you reach Cafayate comfortably before sunset – the road deserves to be seen in daylight, and you’ll want energy left for that first glass of Torrontés.
This route genuinely deserves its reputation as one of Argentina’s great drives. We approached it with moderate expectations and left thoroughly impressed by the scale of the landscape, the quality of the wine and the sheer relaxed charm of Cafayate itself. The key is simple: don’t rush it, pack sensibly and be prepared to pull over every time a viewpoint appears – there’s not a bad angle on this road anywhere.